COMBINATION WRENCH SET Either metric or standard, depending on your bike. Really old British iron uses a third system (Whitworth). If you’re low on cash, get only the sizes you need, but it’s usually cheaper to buy a complete set.
SOCKET SET Get a kit with drive handles and extensions. Buy the best set you can afford—you’ll probably use it more than any other tool. If you can only get one drive size, pick up a 3⁄8-inch set.
HEX KEYS Again, available in standard or metric. The best have a ball drive on one end that lets you use them at an angle.
SCREWDRIVERS The most misused tool ever. Buy some cheap ones to loan out or for when your kids use them to pry open cans or punch holes in the wall; hide the good ones for proper bike work.
PLIERS You’ll need several pairs: needle-nose, wire-cutting, adjustable-jaw, and locking.
ZIP TIES The “tool” of a thousand uses. Keeps cables tidy and routed, holds wiring in place, temporarily repairs broken turn signals, and more.
FEELER GAUGES These thin metal strips are essential for setting valve clearances.
DRAIN PAN Something that will hold at least a gallon (4 liters), for changing oil.
BATTERY CHARGER Also called a trickle charger. Keeps your battery topped up if the bike is parked for a long time. If you go riding every day of the week, you can skip using one of these.
HAMMER Smaller is generally better. Get a second soft-faced hammer or rubber mallet for delicate work.
IMPACT DRIVER A necessity for removing torn-up case screws.
FLASHLIGHT It won’t replace real shop lighting, but a handheld light is good for peering down into the dark recesses of your engine.
MULTIMETER OR TEST LIGHT Tracking down any electrical gremlins without one is going to be pretty much impossible.
CONTACT CLEANER A consumable, but one of the most useful tools in the shop. Blasts out crud with a powerful solvent, and dries instantly.
SHOP MANUAL Forget the booklet that came with your bike. If you’re into serious work, shell out for the encyclopedia-sized version from your dealer.
COMBINATION WRENCH SET Either metric or standard, depending on your bike. Really old British iron uses a third system (Whitworth). If you’re low on cash, get only the sizes you need, but it’s usually cheaper to buy a complete set.
SOCKET SET Get a kit with drive handles and extensions. Buy the best set you can afford—you’ll probably use it more than any other tool. If you can only get one drive size, pick up a 3⁄8-inch set.
HEX KEYS Again, available in standard or metric. The best have a ball drive on one end that lets you use them at an angle.
SCREWDRIVERS The most misused tool ever. Buy some cheap ones to loan out or for when your kids use them to pry open cans or punch holes in the wall; hide the good ones for proper bike work.
PLIERS You’ll need several pairs: needle-nose, wire-cutting, adjustable-jaw, and locking.
ZIP TIES The “tool” of a thousand uses. Keeps cables tidy and routed, holds wiring in place, temporarily repairs broken turn signals, and more.
FEELER GAUGES These thin metal strips are essential for setting valve clearances.
DRAIN PAN Something that will hold at least a gallon (4 liters), for changing oil.
BATTERY CHARGER Also called a trickle charger. Keeps your battery topped up if the bike is parked for a long time. If you go riding every day of the week, you can skip using one of these.
HAMMER Smaller is generally better. Get a second soft-faced hammer or rubber mallet for delicate work.
IMPACT DRIVER A necessity for removing torn-up case screws.
FLASHLIGHT It won’t replace real shop lighting, but a handheld light is good for peering down into the dark recesses of your engine.
MULTIMETER OR TEST LIGHT Tracking down any electrical gremlins without one is going to be pretty much impossible.
CONTACT CLEANER A consumable, but one of the most useful tools in the shop. Blasts out crud with a powerful solvent, and dries instantly.
SHOP MANUAL Forget the booklet that came with your bike. If you’re into serious work, shell out for the encyclopedia-sized version from your dealer.